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Ask the Artist


Our Artist in Residence, Dina Kowal, answers your questions


  • Submit your question to Dina
  • March 19, 2014
    Q: Kim wants to know: "When I make a card I try to get all elements straight, but when I am done they are a little off. I mostly see it when I take a picture for my files. Is there a way to get it straight every time? I want to someday sell my cards and I can't if they continue to be off."

    A: For me, rather than using adhesive that's stuck and done, I use Tacky Glue to assemble my cards - the glue gives me just a little bit of wiggle room if my initial placement isn't just right. It might also help to work on a gridded surface, or use a laser level to help you keep things aligned.


    March 12, 2014
    Q: Wendy asks: "I have printed designs on vellum paper and can't get the ink to dry. Is there anything I can put on it to stop smudging?"

    A: The best printer for vellum is a laser printer, but inkjet printers can be used successfully. Print using a draft setting to use less ink. Hand-feed one sheet through the printer at a time to avoid smearing. Try removing the vellum quickly from the printer and applying clear embossing powder to the wet ink, then heat emboss carefully (vellum tends to warp). If you're stamping images on vellum, StazOn® ink works well, as it dries quickly and permanently, and does not need to be embossed.


    March 5, 2014
    Q: Gran7 wants to know: "How can you apply gold leaf to a rubber stamped image?"

    A: To apply gold leaf to the outline of the image, stamp with an ink suitable for embossing, then apply sticky embossing powder to the outline. When heated, this powder melts to a tacky finish, and the leafing can be applied while it is still warm. Buff away the excess after the powder cools. To apply gold leaf to an open area of the image, apply adhesive to the area with a glue pen, or use the sticky embossing powder as above with a Versamarker. Apply the leafing, and allow the adhesive to dry completely before buffing the excess away.


    February 26, 2014
    Q: Stamp Mad asks: "Is organza ribbon the only ribbon you can use to heat and 'melt' or can you use other ribbons?"

    A: Any synthetic ribbon (polyester, satin, grosgrain, organza, etc.) will change shape with heat. Heating along the edge of the ribbon will ripple and curl it for a great vintage look. Each different variety and weight of ribbon will take a different amount of heat and time, so you might want to experiment first. For example, holes will melt in sheer organza ribbon if heat is applied for too long, or too directly.


    February 19, 2014
    Q: "Do you advise changing wood mounted stamps into ones used on acrylic blocks? If so, what is the best way to do it?"

    A: I unmounted most of my stamps years ago, and have only bought unmounted or cling stamps since, with a few exceptions that are only available on wood mounts and are collector's items. We have moved frequently and I have limited storage space, so it is nice not to have the extra weight and bulk of the wood to deal with. I keep my smaller stamps in CD cases; other cling mounted stamps are in binders on cling storage boards. You can find some helpful tips in this tutorial, and in the comments below the tutorial. Some stamps will come off the blocks readily, depending on the foam used to mount them. Others are very sticky, and it helps to pop the stamps in the microwave for just a few seconds to loosen the glue.


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