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I've been wanting to sew on my cards for a while now and recently put a 60% off coupon from AC Moore to use to buy a Singer 8280 sewing machine.
I don't have much experience with sewing machines and unfortunately, I am not happy with the results of my sewing. My stiches are much too small (even though I have the machine set to the longest straight stitch possible). I know a lot of you are using the Janome Sew Mini, and that many of the cards I see look like individual stitches vs. a straight line with no spaces between the stitches.
Does anyone use a Singer 8280 (Prelude), and if so, is there a trick that I'm missing to adjust the stitches to look more spaced out?
I'm hoping my investment in this Singer machine doesn't turn out to be a disapointment - but as it stands right now, I think I bought the wrong machine. Funny how excitement can quickly turn to disapointment if things don't turn out as planned! :-(
Aww, sorry you're feeling disappointed with your machine :(
I don't have any experience of the machine you're using I'm afraid but one thing you might try is heavyweight thread (upholstery or buttonhole thread). I find it makes the stitch definition much clearer no matter what stich I'm using (straight or zig zag).
How long is the stitch you're getting with it set at maximum (what's the space between the holes)?
Thanks for the comment Joanne. I will try the heavier thread as you suggest. I have all weekend to play with my machine again.
I'll try to take a picture of the stitching and post it here on SCS - but as I see it, there is NO space between the stitches no matter how long of a stich I choose. It's not so much the size of the stitch (even though it is a bit smaller than I would like), but it's the fact that the machine does not want to leave a space between the stitches. i think my machine is just being stubborn or I need a "How to Sew for Dummies" book!!! ;)
I only have a regular sewing machine, but I have done a lot of sewing. I just looked at a picture of your machine.
You have 2 knobs on the front. One must be to adjust the stitch length and the other to activate the various stitch features such as straight or zig zag stitching
You may have one of the knobs set at a basting or tacking stitch.
Look in your manual and see which icon on the knobs is for "straight" stitching.
I could not find a large picture to see them clearly, but I suspect the stitch features are on the bottom knob.
Here is a video I found on how how use your machine
Is your paper going through the machine with no help from you? The feed dogs and pressure foot should work together. That would determine stitch length.
I just watched part of the video and the bottom knob IS where the stitch patterns are selected. It looks like you have 2 straight type stitch patterns next to the Zig Zag icon.
One may be a basting stitch.
If so the stiches are very closed to each other to aid it removing them. What does the back of the paper look like after you sewed a line? Does it have a little chain stitch of circles?
Setting the top knob at 4+ will give you a basiting type stitch. Set it a 2.5 or 3
Don't give up we will get you sewing with that machine LOL
__________________ "I have not failed . I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work" --Thomas A. Edison
Last edited by Barbara Jay; 09-09-2011 at 12:51 PM..
I have a Singer also, very similar to yours. I love it! I gently pull on my project as I stitch. I haven't tried playing around with the other stitches yet, but plan to soon. Don't give up, you will be loving it soon.
It sounds to me like the paper is not feeding properly because the feed dog is slipping on the paper. I would suggest you try your machine on a piece of fabric. If it works fine on the fabric then the problem is sewing on paper and you will have to play with the pressure on the feed dogs. No pressure is for darning or freehand quilting. Higher pressures are used for stiffer and heavier fabrics.
If you still get the really short stitches even with your machine set on "4" for stitch length, and sewing on fabric, then I would have someone check your machine. Doesn't necessarily need to be a service person, but someone who sews a lot and cares for their own machine can check it out for you.
there is NO space between the stitches no matter how long of a stich I choose. It's not so much the size of the stitch
This sounds right for a straight stitch. The top thread lays on the paper or fabric. It is pulled into the hole the needle makes and secured with the bottom thread, but it leaves no space no matter how long you make your stitch.
You'll notice this if you ever have to remove a length of stitches. You can cut the top thread in two place, pull it straight out and then the bottom thread is easily removed. It doesn't work as easily if you cut the bottom thread.
As mentioned, you might see more definition if you use a heavier thread, but you will not see a space like you'd get if you were sewing by hand because the needle goes in and comes back out the same hole on a sewing machine.
Using a zig-zag stick will give the appearance of a space between stitches, even though the top thread is still laying on top of the paper or fabric.
I'll try to take a picture of the stitching and post it here on SCS - but as I see it, there is NO space between the stitches no matter how long of a stich I choose.
OK, so I'm not sure I'm understanding the problem. Machine stitching does not leave spaces between stitches like you'd get with hand stitching. That just wouldn't be possible because the needle always has to go in from the top so the thread has to go with it, meaning the thread will always show on top of your project.
Can you show us an example of the sort of project you've seen and want to emulate? I'm wondering if you've seen hand stitched projects (although there are far less of them about, I'm sure).
As Joanne said what you think is a space is really a hole from the needle going down and grabbing the bobbin thread.
I am wondering because you are sewing on paper if your needle thread tension is too tight. That would make the top thread look like a line rather than individual stitches, but it is really the needle thread being too taunt and pulling the bobbin thread to the top.
If you look very closely you would see a tiny thread loop between the stitches instead of holes.
If that is what you are seeing the way to loosen your tension is by turning the knob on the top of the machine to a lower number. Try 4 and if that doesn't fix it then try 3
Also the needle that came with the machine is probably a #80 which is for medium weight fabric. You can try a larger needle such as a #90 or #100.
Or buy a Top Stitching needle which has a larger eye to accommodate top stitching thread which is thicker.
A larger needle will make a larger hole between stitches.
__________________ "I have not failed . I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work" --Thomas A. Edison
Last edited by Barbara Jay; 09-10-2011 at 01:27 AM..
I think all of our responses are based on what we think you are saying in your original post. So, to clarify your problem, here is an example of what machine stitching on paper will look like with a long stitch.
I'm sorry I have been out of commission for a while. I came down with a nasty bug and am finally feeling a little better now.
I appreciate the feedback you all have given. Unfortunately, I'm currently not able to take a picture of what my stiching looks like since I'm having problems with my digital camera. But I hope to be able to do so shortly -it would help for you all to see what I mean exactly.
Diane, the picture sample you posted (Dream Big) is EXACTLY the look I'm trying to get. There is a tiny little space between each stich (at least that's how I see it), but when I sew on my projects there is no tiny little space. No matter what type of thread I'm using, what size my stich is, or what tension setting I'm using, the stiches are one on top of another.
I would like to try to see if making adjustments to the feed dogs would make a difference but I'm not finding directions on how to make that type of adjustment. Any suggestions for me??
The result of the zigzag stiching looks fine, so for the time being, I'll be doing zigzag stiching.
It would be great if we could see your stitching, because I think you have a "simple" adjustment problem.
What does your stitching look like on the "back side" of the paper?
The way a machine sews is the threaded needle goes down into the paper/fabric and catch the bobbin thread . Then the needle come back up again and the feed-dogs advance the paper/fabric and the needle goes down again to catch the bobbin thread and form another stitch.
If your Zig Zag is fine the feed dogs are engaged. Don't worry about those
If after stitching the thread "is attached to the paper/fabric" then the needle thread IS catching the bobbin thread. . If it was not catching the bobbin thread there would be no stitches or line of thread. It would just fall off.
Use a magnifying glass and look at your row of stitching. Are there tiny loops on one side of the paper that cross between the stitches ?
Which side do the little loops appear ?
If the loops are on the top of the paper your needle thread tension it too tight. The thread is too taunt to go all the way down to catch the bobbin thread. So it is pulling the bobbin thread to the top to catch it
If the loops are on the back side of the paper your needle thread tension is too loose. There is too much slack in the needle thread and it has to go somewhere so it is looping on the under side
Both of these situations would produce what you are calling a straight line instead of stitches.
Perfect stitching has no loops but just a hole between the stitches on both sides of the fabric/paper.
__________________ "I have not failed . I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work" --Thomas A. Edison
I just found a diagram of what I am trying to explain. The side where you are seeing a straight line is where the needle thread tension needs to be adjusted.
__________________ "I have not failed . I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work" --Thomas A. Edison
Barbara - thanks for the further clarification and the diagram. I have asked my sister to loan me her camera and I will post pictures of the front and back of my stiching this weekend. I have tried to adjust the tension in both directions and it only seems to be affecting the bottom of the stiching no matter which direction I am adjusting the tension, and when I loosen the tension it seriously makes a mess on the bottom side of the paper.
I will also try to stich onto fabric to see how the stiching turns out.
Ok it may be your bobbin tension, but get someone you know who sews a lot to fiddle with that.
The bobbin tension is a screw on the bobbin case and there are no marks to return it to it's original position. You just need to fiddle with it and understand what you are seeing to know which way to adjust it.
Not a task for a novice. I have done a lot of sewing and free motion machine embroidery. You need a loose bobbin tension for free motion embroidery. I bought a second bobbin case and adjusted it to use with just free motion embroidery. It was too much monkey business to keep re-adjusting my normal sewing bobbin case tension.
Does anyone at AC Moore know how to sew? Maybe if you take it to them they will adjust it for you.
__________________ "I have not failed . I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work" --Thomas A. Edison
Last edited by Barbara Jay; 09-14-2011 at 03:59 PM..
Another thought is you may have a defective tension dial, either the thread or bobbin tension
I would seriously consider taking it back to AC Moore and showing them your problem. You should not have this much difficulty doing straight stitching.
__________________ "I have not failed . I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work" --Thomas A. Edison
Diane, the picture sample you posted (Dream Big) is EXACTLY the look I'm trying to get. There is a tiny little space between each stich (at least that's how I see it)
That "space" is just the needle hole, nothing else. The only way I can see that that would seem to "disappear" would be in the second of the diagrams that Barbara posted where your upper thread is too tight and it pulls the bobbin thread up into little loops on top of your project - those could mask the little holes, I guess.
I'm sure the photos will help us figure it out with you!
Problem solved!!!! I took my Singer machine back and the manager at AC Moore was very nice. He said if I wasn't happy with it, he would return my money no problem. There really wasn't anyone in the store that knew much about sewing machines so I decided to take him up on the offer to get my money back.
I promptly went to Hancock Fabrics and bought myself a Janome Sew Mini.
I've set my new machine up and the stiching is just like I wanted!! What a big difference. I love this little machine and I even managed to get it on sale for $49. If anyone else has been thinking about getting one, the sale at Hancock Fabrics is on through this weekend - I highly recommend getting one.
A big thank you to everyone who took the time to help me out - your advice was much appreciated.
Problem solved!!!! I took my Singer machine back and the manager at AC Moore was very nice. He said if I wasn't happy with it, he would return my money no problem. There really wasn't anyone in the store that knew much about sewing machines so I decided to take him up on the offer to get my money back.
I promptly went to Hancock Fabrics and bought myself a Janome Sew Mini.
I've set my new machine up and the stiching is just like I wanted!! What a big difference. I love this little machine and I even managed to get it on sale for $49. If anyone else has been thinking about getting one, the sale at Hancock Fabrics is on through this weekend - I highly recommend getting one.
A big thank you to everyone who took the time to help me out - your advice was much appreciated.
I am happy you took it back! And good to know that AC Moore will stand behind what they sell. The Singer had to be defective if none of the suggestions solved the problems.
As you see now, straight stitching should not be difficult, the machine was a lemon.
Now, If you were trying to stitch buttonholes that would take a little more fiddling. LOL
__________________ "I have not failed . I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work" --Thomas A. Edison
LOL - could you imagine... sewing button holes on cards.... who knows what the next trend will be. But I'm fairly certain my sewing skills would not be up to par to ever learn how to do that.
I'm looking forward to the weekend so that I can play with my little Janome - I see a few cards in my future weekend plans.
Since you are new to sewing here is a little tip on how to keep your line of stitching straight.
Put your card under the pressure foot and lower the needle where you want to begin. A corner is preferable. Lower the pressure foot.
Then lay a strip of masking tape on the bed of the machine next to the card "edge". This will serve as a guide for the paper.
Now here is the important part "keep your eyes on the edge of the paper", don't watch the needle.
In fact in all sewing you watch the edge of the paper or fabric , not the needle . The only time you watch the needle is when you are approaching a corner. You don't want to sew off the paper or fabric.
When you get to the bottom of the side and want to turn the corner, lower your needle into the paper , lift the pressure foot and turn the paper. Lower the needle and continue sewing.
__________________ "I have not failed . I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work" --Thomas A. Edison
Thanks for the tip about laying down masking tape and not watching the needle. I will give that a try. Sewing on the Janome is so much easier than on the Singer because it only has one speed and that speed seems to work well for me.
Any tips on how to eventually learn how to sew around a circle? I realize that's a bit more advanced but I'm wondering if there are any tips on how to do that eventually.
When you become more confident sewing you can use the edge of your pressure foot as a guide. Then you will watch the edge of the pressure foot and where the paper/fabric is in
relation to it
__________________ "I have not failed . I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work" --Thomas A. Edison
Yes when you are sewing any shape you use and watch the edge of the pressure foot and the paper as a guide.
Put your needle down into the paper/ fabric where you want to begin. Lower the pressure foot.
Notice the distance of the edge of the paper from the right edge of the pressure foot. Then slowly sew maintaining that distance.
In a tight circle or shape you may need to raise the pressure foot and turn the paper a little bit several times. Always have the needle down in the paper when you turn it. Just like you did when you were turning a corner.
__________________ "I have not failed . I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work" --Thomas A. Edison
Sorry for so many posts . When I log off I lose my edit
One more thing. When your approach a corner stop sewing with the foot pedal and do the last few stitches by rotating the fly wheel TOWARD YOU by hand. The fly wheel is the big wheel on the right side of the machine.
NEVER rotate the fly wheel away from you (back wards). It can mess up your machine.
__________________ "I have not failed . I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work" --Thomas A. Edison
I have a Singer, its new in the box, from 2 or 3 birthday's ago. I wanted it and am scared to open it! I haven't used a sewing maching since 6th grade and am not really sure I remember how to use one!
Stich Size - Singer Sewing Machine
