Splitcoaststampers.com - the world's #1 papercrafting community
You're currently viewing Splitcoaststampers as a GUEST. We pride ourselves on being great hosts, but guests have limited access to some of our incredible artwork, our lively forums and other super cool features of the site! You can join our incredible papercrafting community at NO COST. So what are you waiting for?
I am looking for tips or tutorials about how to shadow or shade around stamped objects. Some people seem to be able to do this with such skill, that you don't notice the shadows unless you are looking for them. Yet without the shading their picture would probably look dull and flat. I would like to learn how to add the color around objects, when I am using all mediums (Copics, Watercolors, Prismas, etc.).
How do you add shadows to an object? I find the technique that works the best for me is to cut a mask and sponge around an object, but I think there must be an easier way. One of my favorite Copic artists uses Prismas and blends it out with Gamsol. She colors lightly in small circles with her pencils. I have tried that method and mine looks awful. I don't know what I am doing wrong with this technique.
I've tried using Copics, but that doesn't look great, either. I don't know if I am using the wrong technique, colors, or something else. I really want to learn how to do this, so any help would be greatly appreciated.
If I'm coloring with Copics, I use the lightest colors, usually BG0000, or B0000 all the way around the image. Then I'll grab a darker color, BG72 for example and touch the BG0000 to the BG72 and add some darker shading in small little areas that need more shadow. I'll keep working it out from the image until it looks the way I want it to.
With colored pencils, you have to be more careful. The trick is to NOT add too much color. Instead of small circles, I use the side of the pencil almost flat against the paper, it helps eliminate the pencil strokes. Very, very lightly. Then I blend that out with OMS. If I want darker color, I add more color in small amounts and blend it out little by little. It's easier to add more color than it is to remove it.
I've also found that it is easier to get nice blends with OMS with colored pencils on very smooth paper. The smoother the paper (Bella's bestest paper for example) the less color it will hold, which makes the shadow blending easier IMO.
HTH.
Hi Annie, I am making the shadows with chalk. This gives a very soft and nice touch and when added to much you can easily erase the mistake. You can find a little tutorial overhere if your interested;) Patterned Paper: Whiff Of Joy, Chalk Tutorial
I use those little sponge tipped eyeshadow applicators to apply my chalk and that type of applicator allows me to *buff* the color *into* the surface of the paper which really helps for the chalk not getting rubbed off with normal handling of a card I've made. But sure, if someone rubs on the chalked portion some chalk will come off on their fingers.
If I've done a lot of chalking, even though I've buffed the chalk into the paper, I use a spray sealant to set the chalk.
What I always do if I don't spray-seal the card is lay a piece of white tissue paper cut to fit over the size of the front of the card to help protect the surface, and that piece of tissue paper (I think) lets the recipient know to handle the card with care.
Here's a link to a card in my gallery that I chalked...sorry for the poor quality photo, I can't take a great pic of a card to save my life. LOL
I have chalks that don't smear or rub off. They are from The Stencil Collection. They are a bit different from traditional chalks. The company calls them non-smear pastels, and they are acid and lignin free. I purchased the box of 32 half sticks years ago, and they last forever, but they are a bit spendy. I paid $26.50 for my set way back when. I went to their web site and they have them for $30 with no shipping charge, but it also lists it as a January special, so perhaps they aren't still available for that price. I have not had any problems with these chalks rubbing off, and have even used them to color things on the outside of the envelope that were mailed.
I don't know why I never thought of using them to add shadows to my images. I have so many other things going on right now, so I haven't been able to play with any techniques yet, but when I get a chance I will try chalks, too. Thanks for the tips.
Annie, do those chalks blend smoothly to produce a soft finish like other chalks that aren't pastels? I'm wondering if they're waxy like other pastels.
I use SU's watercolor wonder crayons and a blender pen to just lightly outline my image with Sahara Sand or Crumb Cake. I think it gives it a nice look without being too noticeable.
Annie, do those chalks blend smoothly to produce a soft finish like other chalks that aren't pastels? I'm wondering if they're waxy like other pastels.
Yes, they are wonderful to blend, have a nice color selection and don't feel waxy. I think they are almost exactly like other chalks, but without the draw-backs of chalks. When I purchased them from my LSS the owner said I would need to take a stylus and scratch/rub into the chalk before I used it each time, in order to be able to be able to get the chalk onto my applicator. I did do that once or twice, but have not ever had to do that again. When you open up the box there is a sheet of tissue and a sponge sheet protecting the chalks, but unlike traditional chalks there is very little chalk on the tissue. Sometimes you see chalks in stores that are all over the package and they haven't even been opened yet. These are different. I hope that helps answer some of your questions. It would be interesting to see what others who own the chalks think of them.
I use a SU acrylic block, my SU markers rub on the block and then take my blender pen and lay the color down where I want it. I try to make the ink more watery with the blender pen and than add more if needed.
There are a couple of art theories on shading. Some people tell you that you need to know where your light source is.
I mostly use shading to make things look more realistic and have something of a 3-D appearance. If something is in front of or above something else, it casts a shadow on that object. Wherever you have an edge, one side or the other should be shaded. I wouldn't normally put in a shadow separate from that unless to indicate ground.
The best coloring technique for shading/shadows depends some on what technique you're using to color the image.
For markers, I usually just go over the shaded area another time with the same color. If I want a really dramatic contrast I use a slightly darker color.
For watercolors, if I'm just putting a light wash on the image, I come back with the same color and less water for shading. If I was painting the image, I would mix a little of the complementary color into the main color for shading. Black w/c's tend to be brownish or murky if you use lots of water, so look for neutral tint or Payne's gray instead if you want a gray shadow.
For colored pencils, I just shade darker with the same color, starting with maximum intensity along the contour. I color the images using the side of the pencil, very lightly in vertical, horizontal, right diagonal and left diagonal. This creates a directionless shading.
For snow, I use a periwinkle blue colored pencil. If you're using markers, try a blue or purple highlighter, as they seem to have that shadows on snow color that regular markers are too dark for.
Another thing you might try is using markers that are fairly dried up. Wet the tips of felt-tip markers with a damp paper towel. This will give you a very light version of the same color (depending how much water you use), which could work for shadows. With solvent based ink, you'd have to use the clear blender (the same solvent as the ink).
I stamp my main object, mask it. clean off your original stamp, ink the stamp with the lightest grey and apply slightly over the side of your original object. Lifhtly fill in your shadowed object with lighr grey. There is your shadow.
If I want a shadow on the ground lightly pencil one side at the base of the stamped object. Hope this helps.
Shadows around images
