die cutting chipboard question

[SuG]

I am using the tim holtz bird die cut for the big shot. I previously made a pin for my SIL using 3 sheets of cardstock adhered together and UTEE on both sides. She showed me the branch and tail broke off. But she really wants another.

So today I used one vanilla cs, medium chipboard and two layers of choco chip card stock on the back. I used 3 layers of UTEE on the front and one on the back. I hope this is sturdy enough.
But now I see another problem, the thickness of the chipboard. It looks like the beak and ends of the twig may start to separate at the layers of chipboard.
Any suggestions?
obviously the one on the right is the old one, the one on the left doesn't have the pin on the back.

[UnderstandBlue]

Cute! Why don't you just cut the layers separately and then adhere them together with dimensional glaze - that might be stronger than UTEE..

[Angelnorth]

Cute pin! Could you coat the cut edges with PVA glue (Elmers type)? I'd try just putting a dab on my finger and running it right round the edge of the whole pin.

UTEE can be quite fragile so you may still find this version snaps in the same places as the first one. If it does and you want to try again, you might try something like Mod Podge or one of the spray sealants (I like Krylon but there are loads out there) for a protective coating. It won't have the same dimensional effect but it won't introduce that element of brittleness that UTEE or one of the dimensional glazes will.

It is possible to make UTEE stronger by using Ranger's Flex if you're willing to dip your item in molten UTEE rather than coating it one layer at a time. Flex can give a slightly yellow cast to the coating though.

Hope something there helps!

[Karen3000]

Before the advent of at home die cutting capabilities, I made lots of pins with layers of heavy weight paper glued together with regular pva-type glue. The layers ended up being thicker than chipboard and very sturdy because of the glue holding the layers together (all the layers were hand cut = lots of sore thumbs from the scissors ). I then coated the pins with a brush on glaze that was very thick and took a good day or so to dry, using several coats. I still wear these pins and for the most part have had no problems. I usually didn't have smaller pieces to break off, though, so that may be why they are still just like I made them. My pins often had beads hanging from them or other heavy embellishments like vintage/broken jewelry, etc. I think if you make multiple die cuts, glue them together, and use a different glaze medium than UTEE, you will be ok. If you decide to put holes in the pins for beading or attaching any embellishments, don't wait until you have all the layers done because you won't be able to get a hole puncher through the completed pieces - you have to do it as you add the layers. Just allow enough time for drying between the layers, or you will get bubbling/rippling of the paper (don't ask me why I recommend the drying time . I also used a ton of clothes pins to hold the layers together to keep them flat as they dried. Sounds like lots of work but I had a system worked out and I made LOTS of pins to sell at craft fairs.

[winnieu]

I cut grungepaper in the cuttlebug all the time and it is flexible. I think it would make a lovely pin. (Your birds are darling...)

[SuG]

I put the layers together with sticky tape (score pal).
I like the shine of the UTEE, not sure about the dipping in molten utee, I don't have a melting pot and don't have any other reason to buy one.
I can't get the stamped/colored image on grungeboard, but it would prevent the peeling of the chipboard.
I experimented with a solar gel i got at a local bead shop, that just soaked into the cs and chipboard.
Karen, what was the brush on glaze you would use?

I have made these with just 3 layers of cs with a butterfly or heart shape and then using UTEE, it works fine, it is just this bird with the delicate features that is giving me problems. Honestly, I gave her the bird and my MIL a butterfly when I first made these and asked them to let me know how they held up because I would make them fro craft shows if they were durable.

[Angelnorth]

Quote:

Originally Posted by SuG

I like the shine of the UTEE, not sure about the dipping in molten utee, I don't have a melting pot and don't have any other reason to buy one.

Me neither. If I want molten UTEE I use a couple of disposable pie pans - put the UTEE (and Flex if needed) in one, turn the other upside down as a lid and clip them together with metal clips and pop the whole thing in the oven for a few minutes (300 - 340F).

I'm not sure why you say you can't get the stamped/coloured image on Grungeboard though. You can stamp, ink, paint and emboss on Grungboard. If you want the colours more vivid that you'd get on the dingy grey, you can prime the surface with a bit of gesso first.

You can get spray sealants that are gloss finish. You won't get the thickness of something like UTEE but you will still get the shine. Plaid and Krylon both do them, I'm sure there are others out there too.

[SuG]

Ah, I haven't explored the possibilities of grungeboard, although I have some numbers that are pattern embossed. It seemed more porous than chip board and I assumed it wouldn't hold color. thanks for the info.
Great idea for melting the utee
One more question, I have never heard of the flex you are referring to, is this something I might find at a chain store? Also, is it a powder or liquid? I will look it up but it is always helpful to "talk" to someone who has experience with it.

Ok tried to search it and I can't find it on the ranger site. Maybe it is discontinued?
Of course, while searching, I find I might need a melting pot and so many other things (the problem with searching)

[SuG]

I also might buy some gloss sealant, I have always used matte and didn't think of that.

[Angelnorth]

Flex is made by Ranger specifically for use with UTEE and it's kind of granules. It's on the Ranger site here. For some reason they seem only to do a big jar of the stuff, splitting one with a friend is a good idea unless you're going to do loads of dipping! I've heard of people chopping up hot melt glue stick rather than using the Flex but haven't tried that myself - it apparently has the same strengthening effect and also doesn't have the yellowish colour cast problem.

[babygirl-is-my-cat]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Angelnorth

Flex is made by Ranger specifically for use with UTEE and it's kind of granules. It's on the Ranger site here. For some reason they seem only to do a big jar of the stuff, splitting one with a friend is a good idea unless you're going to do loads of dipping! I've heard of people chopping up hot melt glue stick rather than using the Flex but haven't tried that myself - it apparently has the same strengthening effect and also doesn't have the yellowish colour cast problem.

ok so i'm really behind... lol ...i did a few pendants for friends as a gift and used the utee but did not use and flex stuff...do you have to use it and does the glue sticks really work???? thanks :p

[Angelnorth]

Quote:

Originally Posted by babygirl-is-my-cat

ok so i'm really behind... lol ...i did a few pendants for friends as a gift and used the utee but did not use and flex stuff...do you have to use it and does the glue sticks really work???? thanks :p

The Flex will just make UTEE a bit less brittle and it's certainly not necessary for every piece you make. A pendant is quite likely to be just fine without it.

I still haven't gotten around to trying with glue sticks - maybe somebody else has experience with that?

[babygirl-is-my-cat]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Angelnorth

The Flex will just make UTEE a bit less brittle and it's certainly not necessary for every piece you make. A pendant is quite likely to be just fine without it.

I still haven't gotten around to trying with glue sticks - maybe somebody else has experience with that?

thanks...i looked or that flex stuff and everywhere says out of stock... :( so i'm guess the straight utee will have to work!!!