how to get clear stamps to hold ink
Hello, I know I read a trick or two to make the clear stamps to hold the ink better for stamping but I cannot remember what they were.
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People have different tricks, but it also depends on the quality of the stamp. Photopolymer often takes ink better than acrylic for example. And high quality photopolymer may be easier to ink than ultra cheap stamps. Sometimes you get what you pay for.
The only clear stamps I’ve ever had big problems with were an acrylic set from HSN that came bundled with a tool. (Both the tool and stamps are gone.) : ) But once in a while when new if there’s a large surface I’ll rub the stamp with my fingers, against the inside of my arm, against my jeans, or rub a pencil eraser gently on it. Another option is to first stamp it using Versamark, since it’s sticky. And just stamping several times on scrap paper, inking in between each time but not cleaning, may help. |
I use a nail buffer or superfine sandpaper to "sand" them lightly - it gives them "tooth" instead of a slick surface for the ink to hold onto...
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I use the MISTI stamping tool, especially with cheaper made stamps, then I stamp over and over until I get a dark image.
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Try rubbing a white chalk eraser over them, they work really well to condition clear stamps. Some clear stamps have a bit of film on them and the eraser helps remove it.
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Often a chalk, or hybrid ink will work better than a dye ink, being thicker. As BJeans said, Versamark first is a great help too. You can also remove any film from the manufacturing process with a piece of sellotape- just pressing onto the stamp and lifting.
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I sometimes run into this problem too. First I use a 'pink pearl' erasure to rub the face of the stamp. This usually works pretty good. If not I press the stamp into a versamark pad first then into the coloured ink. This usually this fixes things. Hope this helps.
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I use versamark if using dye ink and it wants to bead up. Easier and quicker than messing with erasers and sandpaper.
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Thanks for the tips. I recently bought some silicone stamps from Mike's (Recollections). Have not been able to try them out yet as my inks are packed away.
Shirl |
That's also why I prefer pigment inks. It's usually not an issue plus they are opaque whereas dye inks are more translucent. But I have a bunch of dye inks because I was RAKed some and recently I picked up several Archival pads because I couldn't resist the clearance price. LOL
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Oxide inks work every time. I used to buy pigment inks all the time but they either didn't have enough ink to start with, or they dried up too fast.
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I have tried a bunch of different strategies. What has worked best is some serious scrubbing with a rather fine grade callous removing “stone” that has lots of different angles and curves in it. It stays on my craft desk and is dedicated to stamps.
Pigment inks, although not preferred by many stampers these days, work best for me with clear stamps. I would like to find a way to get them really dry, though. Archival inks are my new favorite. I particularly like Colorbox’s mudslide and wicked black. Sadly they don't seem to have reinkers for them. I am also trying out Ranger's archival. They are dye inks, but they seem to have something sticky in them that dries completely. They have stained my clear stamps black and brown, but i don't care about that. Finally, I have experimented with acrylic paints and a brayer. This is great for working on batches of impressions, and it works GREAT with my stamps. It would be a hassle for just one or two impressions. |
The best conditioner for a stamp is ink. Just take any dye ink and stamp it repeatedly - you'll notice it getting better with each repetition.
If you're feeling impatient, ink with Versamark, wipe the versamark off with your hand and then ink and stamp. But really getting ink into the surface is the best way to prime a clear stamp for stamping. |
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If ink isn�t sticking to most stamps without being roughed up, checking the material they�re made from might help explain why. I�ve only had a couple stamps out of a few hundred truly not want to easily take dye ink, and one I gave up on - but it was acrylic, not photopolymer. Or some inks aren�t up to par. I rarely condition stamps - other than using ink, like Lydia said, or occasionally Versamark if it�s a bigger surface and I�m impatient. I used to use a pencil eraser but it wasn�t needed. Or I might rub it a moment on my jeans or an arm. But that assumes high quality photopolymer from respected companies. In the very early days of photopolymer, the quality also wasn�t as high. But basically we get what we pay for, though there are exceptions - and sales! : ) |
I can say that the new Versafine Clair inks work fantastically well on clear stamps- it's a really thick, rich ink. You don't get the issue of drying it like you do a pigment ink, but you can still emboss using powder too, making it a good all rounder. If you liked Versafine for stamping, you will LOVE the new Clairs.
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TRUTH. |
I second that emotion! And you can heat emboss 5 minutes+ after stamping.
I sure wish they’d make some pastel colors. Yes, you can second generation stamp. But still would be nice. |
Lightly sand the stamp. I just had to do this with one of my clear stamps. I used an emery board and lightly went over it.
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I always condition new stamps by rubbing them thoroughly with my fingertips, then stamping them off a couple times. It is usually all it takes to get a crisp image. I've given up buying acrylic stamps and only buy photopolymer. It's just not worth fighting the stamp, no matter how "good" the image is when I see it in the package.
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Anyone going to order the Clairs online- the Fallen Leaves Brown does NOT stamp out as brown as it appears on the label. It is really, really dark, in fact you could use it as a black! If you want a nice brown, try Pinecone.
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.spl...d8db1b1263.jpghttps://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.spl...a1c05205ca.jpg |
Thanks Shaz, good to know!
Shirl |
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