Clear plastic versus rubber stamps
 

I have been buying sets of clear plastic stamps (that you mount on a perspex block) recently, having only bought rubber stamps in the past and I am disappointed to find that the clear plastic ones don't stamp well using dye inks, or brush markers (which bead up on the stamp). Even pigment inks aren't as bright as when used on traditional rubber stamps.
Are other stampers finding this? What is the best medium for plastic stamps? Is there some way of treating the stamp so it picks up more ink? Many thanks for your thoughts.
Stephanie

You can try rubbing the stamp with an eraser or if you are wearing a pair of jeans rub them on those. I too have found this and the best ink I have found to use with the clear stamps is Memento. I also try to usemore line images than solid ones.

All in all, I love stamping with rubber more, but sometimes the images are just too good to pass up in the clear stamps. :)

I get beautiful results with clear stamps, but only high quality ones made of photopolymer. the rest are a waste of $$. My ink of choice is Memento.

You can find high quality clear stamps in a lot of places!

Here is another vote for Memento. I love clear stamps and I have found that nothing works as well as Memento. I agree with PP that you should pay a little more to get high quality clear stamps, and yes, there is a difference. The eraser trick works too.

Momento, Chalk inks (I use colorbox cats eye), Pigment inks are what I use on my clear stamps. The better quality photopolymer stamps will stamp clear images and some even work with dye based inks. The cheap silicone (like the Studio G stamps) are hard to get an ink to work unless they're conditioned with an eraser or the fine grit side of a nail polishing block and then most times only chalk or pigment ink will work. I have also had success with the Marvey markers on most of my clear stamps. Marvey does have a set that is specifically formulated to work with clear stamps and they work the best for markers I've found.

Thank you all for your great advice! I feel heaps better about all my clear stamps now that there are so many things I can try.
That is an interesting point about the quality of the plastic. Can I assume that clear stamps from well known companies like Penny Black will be high quality?
Stephanie

Yep, Joan has hit it on the head, there are tons of clear plastic stamps available but in general you want clear photopolymer.

Photopolymer is designed specifically for carrying ink, and will yield fabulous results. There are other materials, and in particular cheaper vinyls and silicone stamps that are made from these materials simply because it's a plastic that is easy to shape. It is not designed to carry ink and in some cases actually repels it, so you don't get a good imprint.

With the stamps that you have, try this tip:

Ink up the stamp in versamark first, then ink up in the coloured ink of your choice, it should perform better. Hope that helps.

Claire

There is a HUGE difference in the quality of clear stamps. Photopolymer is what you want to stick with. Cheaper stamps will cause all sorts of heartache and grief...and can even rip! Yikes!

I've used the eraser method on large solid images - that works well. Also, to "season" your stamps, like you do for rubber stamps. Clear stamps are made in a mold. There is a release agent sprayed in the mold and sometimes that remains on the stamps. I find that cleaning my stamps before using them gives me the best results.

You are all wonderful with your advice! I'll definitely make sure I buy photopolymer stamps in future. About seasoning stamps - what do you use for that?
Stephanie

CTMH ink works really well on photopolymer stamps also since that's what that company manufactures.

Actually, photopolymer stamps aren't made in a mould. They use a light process that hardens the photopolymer resin that is exposed to uv light to form the stamp. The cheaper silicone and vinyl stamps are made from moulds.

No, don't assume unless it is stated that the stamps ARE photopolymer!

I have the Penny Black clear stamps, and they are NOT photopolymer; they are made from the cheaper clear material. HOWEVER, they stamp perfectly for me!!! I use both Palette Noir AND Memento Tuxedo Black on them. But I only have the critter stamps (outline images) and no solid images. The stamped (outline) images come out crisp and clear for me.

ETA:
The main image here is a clear Penny Black stamp:
http:////www.splitcoaststampers.com/...&ppuser=105620

And don't assume that the more expensive photopolymer ones won't tear either - they can!

Thank you for the information! That totally makes sense. I was told this by a manufacturer at a stamping expo. I went back and found out that particular manufacture's stamps NOT a photopolymer and that's why they recommended seasoning them first.

I've been doing some research into the process. I am thinking about trying to make a few of my own stamps with photopolymer, so I've learned quite a bit about it in the last year. Mind you with all the stamps I have that haven't even seen ink yet, I'm sure I don't need to start making my own as well. :)

I use CTMH ink and love it. never tried memento, will have to buy some to try.

I used to be a rubber snob...but I've changed. Both types have their pros and cons.

And hey, the more the merrier when it comes to your stamp collection.

I tend to use craft ink and heat with heat gun since I tend to watercolor my images.

I have heard if you lightly sand your clear stamps with the finest sandpaper you can find, it will help the ink from not beading on your stamp. I have not done this myself, so if you decide to try, let me know if it works.

Also, I bought some ink from Stampology (made by Autumn Leaves) that is suppose to be formulated specially for clear stamps, and I find it never beads on my clear stamps (but will on my rubber stamps).

Hi and thanks again to all of you who have shared your experiences with clear stamps.
I have recently tried sanding some of my clear stamps with 800 grit sandpaper and that does help. I think it is as Pollybear (love your username!) says, the paper, the ink and the pressure all contribute to the clarity of the image, plus whether the stamp is line or solid. Some of my clear stamps are very cheap and some are the more expensive Penny Black ones and this makes a difference too.
Stephanie

A good rule of thumb is to look at the area of the package that says "made in". Most stamps made in the USA are photopolymer and most made in China and Taiwan are silicone or vinyl. MFT does not specifically list our sets as photopolymer, but they most certainly are and require no seasoning, even with SU dye inks.

As for made at home stamps, my best guess is that you aren't going to end up with the same quality of end result on a machine that costs $200 versus one that costs tens of thousands of dollars. But I have no personal experience with DIY machines, so it's just conjecture!

I think read on Tim Holtz's blog or in one of his videos that if you stamp first with stazon and dont clean it off the clear stamps they will then pick up dye ink.
I tried it on some of mine and it did work-so perhaps thats an option

We do not recommend this as Staz On is solvent based and disinegrates both rubber and clear stamps if left on the stamps. And the Staz On cleaner is even more harsh.

I actually did this with VersaMark ink (by accident) and now that cheapo little Studio G stamp works great.

Actually, the ones I've used that were made at home were just as good quality as the one's you can buy. The photopolymer used was from the company that supplies a lot of the big stamps companies that say they use the highest quality resin. The only thing that matters is getting the right UV wavelength and the correct exposure time and you'll have a perfect photopolymer stamp.