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Hi Everyone,
My crafting buddy told me that you can use two different sized circle punches to set eyelets (instead of using the loud pounding hammer). Have you heard of this?
She's going to show me when we meet up at Reno Regionals, but I don't know if I can wait that long....
If anyone can explain how this is done, I would GREATLY appreciate it.
I use my 1/8" handheld punch whenever I can for the eyelet hole, but I still have to hammer the eyelet itself in. If there is a better way - besides the $40 hammerless tool - I am all ears, well, eyes in this case.
You can use the 1/8th (purple handle) to punch the holes and a 1/16th (pink handle) to set the eyelet. Just put the male part through the back of the eyelet and squeeze.
This setting method only works with soft eyelets (like SU) and even then causes excess wear and tear on your punch. My upline broke her punch this way...and so did one of her customers. It is much quieter, though.
Yes, many folks are touting the 1/16" Fiskars hand held punch as a "silent" eyelet setting tool.
However, I have tried it and had unpredictable/chaotic results; works best on aluminum eyelets that are painted only one one side. I can't stress that enough.
Also, it works better on some colors than others; I can't tell you how many Forest Foliage eyelts I had turn out warped--at that point I decided I wasn't going to waste any more eyelets trying to figure out which colors worked well with this method and which didn't!
As far as hammering goes, well, I find it stress relieving and don't mind it and I don't have napping babies to worry about any more, tho!
__________________ Julie Ebersole (JulieHRR once upon a time . . . )julieebersole.com"So shines a good deed in a weary world." -Willy Wonka
2) Once you have a hole in your cardstock, put the eyelet into it, turn the cs over so eyelet is now upside down
3) place your 1/16" punch down into the center of the backside of the eyelet . (just like you would do if you were using the eyelet setter)
4) squeeze the 1/16" punch handles and the punch will set the eyelet wonderfully!!
I use this technique all the time & my customers like it better than the pounding hammer. The only drawback is you are limited to putting eyelets only where your punch will reach.
This is a great way to set eyelets - and actually the first way I was shown how to do it. The only limitation is that you can't do WHEREVER you want - as with the crafter's tool kit.
But here's how:
1. Use the bigger punch to put the hole where you want the eyelet to go. e.g. if using 1/8" eyelets, use your 1/8" hole punch.
2. put the eyelet in the hole as you want it displayed (e.g. color side up)
3. hold piece of paper up to eye level with eyelet in place and turn smaller punch (in this case the 1/16") so that the piece of metal that punches the holes is pointing up to the ceiling.
4. Carefully put the paper into the hole punch and put the round metal part of the eyelet over the metal punch part of the punch.
5. Squeeze and VOILA your eyelet it set.
Hope that's clear.
The other issue I've had doing this is that only the SU! eyelets are soft enough for the punches to work. Eyelets I have bought elsewhere (Joann's specifically) are so hard that my friend bent her hole punch trying to do it!
I don't like using the 1/16th to squash my eyelets, too much work for my hands. And you can only do it with small rounds, you can't do it with any other shape or size, it will distort the small flowers and for the rest it just wont work. Besides a little eyelet beating is a great tension release
Hammering is a great stress relief - except I tend to beat the ever living S*&% out of my eyelets this way and end up destroying them... that's why I like the punches better. I also find the SU! setter not to set as smoothly and then I have to hammer the eyelet directly which ends up bending the eyelet.
OK... so maybe I need to find another stress reliever!
Oh, you have to watch one other thing, because our eyelets are soft, you can punch straight through the eyelet. There's a prime example of this in my gallery. Card
If you look at the left hand corner, you can see where I punched right through it. Oh, and this method doesn't allow for much holding power. Just another bit of info. It doesn't do two or more pages, for that you want the flange to spread.