Altering frames -- why does paper "buckle"?

[merryf]

This isn't exactly general stamping, but I hope it gets left here because I have troubles before getting to the stamping!

I am making some altered frames. I am following the tutorial here in Resources. WHY does my paper buckle when I adhere it to the frame with ModPodge? It's like it gets big wrinkles. I'm trying to do a big frame and no way can I send this as a gift. I also made some in October and the same thing happened.

I thought in October it was because I didn't use enough ModPodge to stick the paper to the frame, so I slathered it on today. Then I slathered more on top, just like the directions. The buckling and the non-sticking was really bad, but I let it sit and rest for several hours.

Now, it's completely dry 3 hours later and it's better, but it is definitely wrinkly. Sure, it looks "hand-made" but it looks amateur. And that's not the look I'm going for.

Anyone have any ideas so this doesn't happen on the next one I try? That's my last frame in the house...

[AmberDawn]

I usually try to Mod Podge both the frame and the backside of the paper you're sticking to the frame. Then I Mod Podge the front, usually works for me! If you have small wringkles, you might try cutting the *tiniest* little slit or hole in it and squeeze the air out. I've done that before too and you can't even see the hole. Sorry I don't have better advice! That is very frustrating when your project doesn't turn out the way you want it to!

[merryf]

Thanks, Amber, I never thought of putting the MP on the back of the paper too. That actually makes sense -- it will have a more-even coating, I bet.

I'm going to search for a thin blade (maybe on my swiss army knife) and try to cut the worst offending wrinkle. The others might be ok. Perhaps I should just try the other frame. It's a good thing I have a second sheet of the paper I want to use...

Oh, grumble.

[dianerh]

Sometimes even using a pin to prick the holes where the bubbles/wrinkles are will work. Also, this will happen more if you try to Mod Podge the top BEFORE it's COMPLETELY dry... learned from experience...

[lgulotta]

I am wondering why you use Mod Podge at all for these frames? Is it possible to just glue the paper to the wood with that good Tombow white glue? What is the advantage or desired result using the Mod Podge over glue? (Bit off topic, but I'm considering making these too and have only heard of using MP but then keep hearing about bubble problems...what's the deal?) Thank you for any input!

[stamphappy1650]

Quote:

Originally Posted by lgulotta

I am wondering why you use Mod Podge at all for these frames? Is it possible to just glue the paper to the wood with that good Tombow white glue? What is the advantage or desired result using the Mod Podge over glue? (Bit off topic, but I'm considering making these too and have only heard of using MP but then keep hearing about bubble problems...what's the deal?) Thank you for any input!

I can't answer why to use Mod Podge because I'm not a fan of MP. For me it's has too much liquid and makes the paper stretch/wrinkle. I prefer to use Crafter's Pick The Ultimate! white glue for paper binding projects. For large surfaces I put on a thin even coat of The Ulitmate! with a sponge brush and smooth with my bone folder or just the side of my palm.

I get mine at Mike's and if you've had it for a while and it gets too thick you can dilute with a little water. It's cheaper than using tombow becaue you can buy larger bottles.

Also, although I'm not a fan of UHU stic I made a project where we used UHU to glue paper pieces on an oatmeal box and then lathered the UHU stic all over the top to seal it. I thought it would look awful, but it really held the pieces in place and had a nice soft sheen when dry.

[dianerh]

I think it just has a more finished look--AND there's no chance of corners peeling off.

[TexasGrammy]

There's a great tip for using Mod Podge on your altered projects.

• Get a thin, smooth coverage of MP on the back of your paper.
• Important Step: Use a brayer to carefully roll out the paper smoothly in all directions.
• For tiny areas such as indentations on frames, use a firm smooth touch with your finger or a firm paint brush.
• (If you elect to smooth with anything other than a brayer, work very carefully so as not to tear. However, the brayer is my all-time favorite choice.)
• Allow this layer to dry before doing anything else to this project.

Just my opinion, but Mod Podge is the most economical way to adhere papers to large areas. And once you learn how to use it successfully, it's a snap. ;)

I hope this helps!

[row4d]

Quote:

Originally Posted by TexasGrammy

Allow this layer to dry before doing anything else to this project.

IMO, this is critical -- if you apply the top coat before letting the "glue" layer dry, the paper will wrinkle. Ever tried to apply a second coat of paint or nail polish before the first one was completely dry? You end up "dragging" the first layer loose as you brush on the second coat, or, in the case of painting a wall, the two layers drying at different rates can damage each other. Maybe this is what's happening with the frames in the OP?

[TexasGrammy]

Quote:

Originally Posted by row4d

IMO, this is critical -- if you apply the top coat before letting the "glue" layer dry, the paper will wrinkle. Ever tried to apply a second coat of paint or nail polish before the first one was completely dry? You end up "dragging" the first layer loose as you brush on the second coat, or, in the case of painting a wall, the two layers drying at different rates can damage each other. Maybe this is what's happening with the frames in the OP?

Yep! That's why I suggested to put the thin layer of MP on the back of the paper. ;)

[ellesart]

Using a brayer is an important step as Texasgrammy points out above and helps to keep things smooth and keeps out air bubbles.

[Stampin' Sooz]

Do you have a Xyron? I am not a big fan of ModPodge so when I've made altered frames, I've put my paper through the Xyron and, after brayer'ing it well and sanding the edges, that paper is not going anywhere. You don't get the "finish" that a coat of ModPodge over the whole thing will give you, but I actually prefer that. It's just a matter of taste.

[jenndspencer]

Quote:

Originally Posted by row4d

IMO, this is critical -- if you apply the top coat before letting the "glue" layer dry, the paper will wrinkle. Ever tried to apply a second coat of paint or nail polish before the first one was completely dry? You end up "dragging" the first layer loose as you brush on the second coat, or, in the case of painting a wall, the two layers drying at different rates can damage each other. Maybe this is what's happening with the frames in the OP?

Oh, I'm an idiot! Duh! Why didn't I let the glue layer dry?! Seriously, It never occurred to me! I just made a bunch of altered tins and had this problem. Wow, I feel stupid. Thanks for cluing me in.

[merryf]

yeah, i think that's my problem -- I am putting on the top coat of the ModPodge before the bottom layer on the frame is dry.

So now it seems the steps are:
1. Put the MP on the frame
2. Put the MP on the back of the paper
3. Brayer the paper smoothly as it adheres.
4. When it is dry, put MP on the front of the paper.

I appreciate everyone's help. I'm going to go dig out my car and come back and try this again. I'm going to think happy sticky ModPodgy thoughts.

[stigmom6]

I do what everyone else is saying let back dry before applying on top HOWEVER I use "ROYAL COAT" It is just like Modge Podge but I just like how it works, less bubbles, wrinkles and seems to dry a bit faster. It is the same type of bottle as MP I buy it at Wally World in the craft area. White Bottle with Burgundy printing. I also use a sponge brush to apply. Hope this helps! :-D

[MarshHen]

I don't really care for Modge Podge for this reason. I use "Yes" paste and I never have a problem with the paper wrinkling. I ordered mine from HSN several years ago. Not sure if Michaels sells it.

[row4d]

Quote:

Originally Posted by merryf

yeah, i think that's my problem -- I am putting on the top coat of the ModPodge before the bottom layer on the frame is dry.

So now it seems the steps are:
1. Put the MP on the frame
2. Put the MP on the back of the paper
3. Brayer the paper smoothly as it adheres.
4. When it is dry, put MP on the front of the paper.

I appreciate everyone's help. I'm going to go dig out my car and come back and try this again. I'm going to think happy sticky ModPodgy thoughts.

Good luck to you! Perhaps the tutorial should be edited to note that the MP used to adhere the paper needs to be completely dry before coating the surface!