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I was watching her video on storing stamps and I've got my bags on the way, but how do you get the stamps from falling to the bottom of the bag. Most of mine are not attached to their clear packaging anymore.
In her video Jennifer Mcquire seems to let the sets be free in the storage bags (with clear sheets on both sides). I'm adhering my sets to the white cardstock inserts, placing a little bit of tape runner on the back clear sheet. I also use packing tape to create a "hinge" at the top of the stamp sets, connecting the front clear sheet (with the images) to the back clear sheet. The stamp sets sort of cling to both front and back sheets anyway.
For my sets that don't have both front and back sheets, I'm cutting Duralar brand clear sheets to size. This brand is acid-free and archival. I found the 100 sheet pack on Dick Blick's site for about $25.
Although I have converted all my PTI stamps and my foam mounted rubber to dura lar. I have not converted the ones from stamp companies that print the image onto the clear sheet. Are we saying that all these big companies like SSS, MFT, WPlus9 etc. are using a material that will damage our photopolymer stamps? I've read all the entries about this. Is this a proven fact? If so I have a lot of work to do.
Like Jennifer has, a piece of white card stock is slipped into every pocket for stability. Then if my stamps aren't on an index sheet or I'm suspicious of the material the sheet is made from, I cut a piece of Dura-Lar Grafix for the stamp to stick to.
Jennifer's system keeps the pocket thin - the stamps don't fall and the pocket stays upright without thicker material.
On that page her comment about the white card stock inserts: "White inserts do not come with pockets – I create those myself with inexpensive white cardstock that I have pre-cut at Kinkos."
The card stock is cut to 5-3/8 x 7-1/4. Since I don't have the number of stamps Jennifer McGuire does (!), I just cut the inexpensive white card stock myself.
I use the Storage pockets and the white cardstock backings and even the double fridge bins for most of my clear stamps. I don't see where she has removed her photopolymer stamps from the printed clear sheets and converted to attaching to duralar though. Am I missing something?
I use the Storage pockets and the white cardstock backings and even the double fridge bins for most of my clear stamps. I don't see where she has removed her photopolymer stamps from the printed clear sheets and converted to attaching to duralar though. Am I missing something?
I posted that I will use Dura-Lar if I'm suspicious of the material a sheet is made from.
I thought there was a possibility that the OP might have been saying she did not have original sheets. She said packaging, but I mentioned Dura-Lar just in case.
Thanks for that info. I guess I'll keep an eye on my remaining clear stamps to see if any gumminess develops. I did email PTI customer service about their backing material and although she didn't commit to telling me what it was made of she said they had had no problems in the nine years they had been in business using the same backing. I did convert from sticking my clear stamps to the insides of DVD cases. Took up twice as much space also. i think I read on this forum that seemed to be a not so good idea.
maryalena, I keep the switching to Dura-Lar simple and minimal:
- made in China purchased by accident
- super inexpensive (and not because they were on sale)
- stamps given to me that were older, may not be photopolymer and are yellowed and stiff and may be on acetate. Photopolymer has come such a long way in the last years.
- Prima stamps because they've openly said their stamps are acetate and made in China. (I don't buy them but appreciate their honesty.)
- something just makes me wonder about the backing and it's a very favorite stamp
I don't sweat the ones from well known companies. If I ever noticed a problem I'd switch then.
Sounds like a plan and saves me a ton of probably unnecessary work. All my remaining clear stamps are photopolymer and come from known companies. I'll probably be six feet under long before these stamps give out.
Even if it comes from a reputable company - be sure to "exercise" your clear stamps. By exercise I mean that every now and then pull the stamp off the clear backing and put it back down. I found that even stamps from reputable companies or not made in China will stick to the backing sheet if I don't use the stamps that often. I've torn stamps because they were so stuck to the backing sheet. I've never had a stamp glue itself to Duralar or a laminated sheet.