Splitcoaststampers.com - the world's #1 papercrafting community
You're currently viewing Splitcoaststampers as a GUEST. We pride ourselves on being great hosts, but guests have limited access to some of our incredible artwork, our lively forums and other super cool features of the site! You can join our incredible papercrafting community at NO COST. So what are you waiting for?
Hi all,
I just got my delivery of some paper I got on sale - it is two batches of Citrus Cardstock by DCWV and using it last night for the first time I noticed that after folding the paper cracked, which wasn't a great look for what I was making. Any idea how to prevent this happening or is this just a cheap paper. I now have 47 sheets of the plain and 47 sheets of the printed paper and am not sure what to do if this is going to be a recurring problem.
Sometimes it helps to score one side, then flip it and re-score the opposite side, I've found. Also it helps to find the 'grain' of the paper and cardstock, and fold with the grain, rather than across it. Try holding it in two hands and flexing it. The way it flexes easiest will be with the grain.
I don't mist. I'm sure mist is fine, I take a damp cloth and gently moisten both sides of the paper, but not too wet, just enough to soften the paper then I gently score and fold. I wait until it drys a bit to get it a crisp score after it's been folded. It definitely helps, sometimes depending on the treatment of the paper by either resist or some colors tend to crack more I notice. I hate cracks.
Last edited by Denverkat276; 07-04-2014 at 12:02 PM..
I score, then fold the opposite direction of the score. When I do that it doesn't crack. When I fold the same direction as the indentation it cracks the paper.
Where did you find your teflon bone folder. I've looked at several places and most say they've never even heard of one. I'd love to get one.
Karen
I bought mine from Scrapadabadoo because they had the square one that I wanted (I have small hands and it's perfect for me ergonomically) and their company is recommended by Jim the Gentleman Crafter. I had a nice purchasing experience with Scrapadabadoo.
And Ellen Hutson was having a 20% off sale for the Fourth of July (you can get the details on Jennifer McGuire's blog).
Here you go.....lots of resources and shape/size options for the teflon folders. Have fun
Are bone folders actually made of bone? Are they ethical?
Bone folders are not made of bone. Most are plastic of some form, some are coated with a resin.
I don't know why they are called bone folders. I did hear something years and years ago that it was because they were made out of wood that was boned (heated and polished), but I'm really not sure how accurate that is, although it seemed to make sense to me.
I bought mine from Scrapadabadoo because they had the square one that I wanted (I have small hands and it's perfect for me ergonomically) and their company is recommended by Jim the Gentleman Crafter. I had a nice purchasing experience with Scrapadabadoo.
And Ellen Hutson was having a 20% off sale for the Fourth of July (you can get the details on Jennifer McGuire's blog).
Here you go.....lots of resources and shape/size options for the teflon folders. Have fun
THANK YOU! I ordered the square one (from Scrapadabadoo)since my hands are also small and a little arthritic. Now I can stop searching. I can't wait to get it. Thanks again!
Karen
I need to try some of the suggestions mentioned. DCWV paper is notorious for cracking when folded but it also the easiest paper to get my hands on in town. Fingers crossed that some of the suggestions help.
I agree with the DCWV and anything coated. I usually cut those down for other applications or the background, never really for a folded card base. I have misted the back of coated paper that was only coated on the front. It did work but it was on an insertion piece of a mini album. I don't want to say it will work with all coated etc.
I love DCWV, but it does crack so I don't use it for anything that I need to fold.
"A bone folder or bonefolder is a dull edged handtool used to fold and crease material in crafts such as bookbinding, cardmaking,<sup id="cite_ref-greetcardencl_3-0" class="reference"></sup> origami<sup id="cite_ref-Smith2004_4-0" class="reference"></sup> and other papercrafts where a sharp crease or fold is needed. Often made from the leg bone of a cow, deer, or similar animal,<sup id="cite_ref-RandEManual_5-0" class="reference"></sup> there are also synthetic alternatives made from plastics. However those made from bone may be less prone to leaving residues on the workpiece.<sup id="cite_ref-inhousebookbinding_6-0" class="reference"></sup> In Japanese bookbinding the equivalent folding tool is traditionally made from bamboo, although a Japanese fabric marking tool ("hera") or Western bone folder may be substituted."<sup id="cite_ref-Japanesebookbinding_7-0" class="reference"></sup>
I saw a tutorial yesterday where water mixed with glycerin was misted on to the paper. The glycerin was to make it more supple. I don't know if this would help or not.
Score your paper first. GinaK has a video on Stamptv, showing how to score and then folding the right way.
I always found bone folder not worth the money. Don't like them
__________________ The quickest way for a parent to get a child's attention is to sit down and look comfortable. Practice safe eating always use condiments
I had that happen to me, then I saw Gina K's video. I have the Scor-Pal. I was scoring and then folding the score on the inside... The "hump" of the score goes on the inside. Scoring stretches the fibers in the cardstock which makes your cardstock not crack when folding. Since I started doing this, I haven't had any of my folds crack on any type of paper, cardstock, etc.
Paper cracks when folded
